The year was 1977. The time when the oil-rich Iranians were in pursuit of an eatery that could provide them with good food and fast service. Aijaz Hussain was quick to pounce on the opportunity. He came up with Fanoos, perhaps the first fast-food joint in Bangalore. Baldwin’s-educated Aijaz hit the goldmine. While he catered to the Iranians’ palate, he also realised the need for some local flavour. And, with good reason!

For with the war breaking out in the late 70's between Iran and Iraq, he soon lost his Iranian clientele. Most of them had left Bangalore for good. However, he didn’t feel the pinch as the `transition’ was quite smooth.

With his original clinetele gone, Aijaz set his eyes on the local crowd. He knew now his clients would be the college-going boys and girls or working bachelors. So he revised his menu and the prices. And Fanoos soon captured the market with a menu that didn’t punch a hole in the wallet.

Where else could you get a Sheekh Kabab for Rs 8 or a Sheekh Roll for Rs 13? Or a Boti Roll for just Rs 17? It became a hit with families too - during the weekends.

At Fanoos, it is really fascinating to watch the chefs at work. Ramu picks up a handful of dough, juggles it dexterously till it’s smooth enough, sends it up and balances it on his nimble fingers as it lands. Now, the dough is thrice the size of a large pizza. He puts it on a hot inverted Kadai and once the roti is well done he passes it over to Nagaraj.

Nagaraj stuffs the roti with spicy mutton or chicken kheema and wraps it in an aluminium foil… it’s ready to be devoured!

In most restaurants, the art of making the Roomali Roti was earlier confined to the kitchens. Aijaz’s eatery brought this art to light.

Unlike other eateries, Fanoos bustles with activity only after noon and peaks in the evenings. It’s open till 11.30 in the night. Way back in the late 70's, it used to be open from 7 a.m. to 4 a.m! During those days as far as late night food was concerned the choice was very limited. There used to be carts selling dosas or idlis in Majestic area till late hours and the Shivajinagar road-side restaurants that never went to sleep… or those occasional mobile carts selling omelettes in the chill of the night.

Besides, in those days, eating at roadside stalls was a taboo. Youngsters were advised against eating at such places as they lacked cleanliness and hygiene.

Fanoos had carved a niche for itself in Bangalore when the city was just trying to rediscover itself with the influx of population from places far and wide – and when Wimpy’s, KFC, or the Pizza Hut were yet to set their foot on its soil.

Address: Fanoos, adjacent to Johnson Market, Hosur Road, Bangalore.

M R Shetty Pictures by Ravindra Nayak C H   |