Musical notes and rhythmic beats of the thala can be heard from a long distance. "Give stress on every swara… ni… dha… pa… you should make the audience listen to my dance…" Surupa Sen is instructing her musicians to match the steps of the dancers. "Show the statement in your eyes. It is music coming from high above and raining on the ground at your feet." Surupa is instructing Bijoyini the star solo performer.

The rough unfinished walls, straw covered thatched roofs, rustic look, rural ambience, rhythmic musical notes and chirping of birds make this place look like a gurukul straight from the vedic times. Everything about Nrityagram, even the toilets and the water tank, is worthy of notice. No doubt it has been awarded the 'best rural architecture' award in 1991, designed by renowned Charles Correa. Lush greenery spreads across ten acres on what was once a barren land on a remote village of Hesaraghatta outside Bangalore. The city's most awaited cultural event 'Vasantahabba' will be held in Nrityagram every year.

This model dance village, built to train dancers in all classical dances, is the first of its kind in the entire country. The brain child of the legendary odissi dancer Protima Gauri, this centre takes classical dance and its aspirants to the milieu of the ancient gurukul. She wanted to revive the guru-shishya parampara in the right kind of environment. The dance school has a small community of students from all parts of India with one common aim - learning and teaching Indian Classical dance forms.

Nrityagram, in Protima's own words, is "an idyllic dance village, peopled with idealistic, hardworking, extremely talented and dedicated young dancers. Girls with a dream in their hearts and the courage to go through fire to achieve their objectives. Girls with a single-minded purpose and the grit to 'hang in there', believing, believing and believing, until they realize their objective, their goal."

And realize their goal they will. A strict regimen of dance, work and study is sculpting a star performer out of every batch. Just as in old times, the students are provided free board, lodging and education. Their lives revolve totally around the work of Nrityagram, which includes, lengthy hours of dance training and theoretical and language studies. Farming and dairy work makes them as self sufficient a unit as possible, as well as teaching dance to the children of municipal schools of villages nearby. "The education in Nrityagram is not just dance, it is a way of life," says Surupa.

Odissi, Mohiniattam and Kathak are taught in different gurukuls and each of them have their own names such as Raymonds Gurukul and BPL Gurukul to name a few. Why such unusual names? It's because these corporate houses have sponsored the building of the gurukuls. For each art form, there is a separate gurukul, which is committed to enrolling not more than six residential students. "Gaurima used to say, if one talented girl comes out of every batch, then our efforts have yielded results. It is still difficult to find that one girl with the fire and passion for dance; but, once found, Nrityagram will take care of the nurture," says Surupa, quoting her beloved mentor.

Now, somehow, with the limited funds, a new dance hall is being constructed with all modern facilities like physiotherapy center, gym and the like. Despite the corporate patronage, it is very difficult to find sponsors to promote art. In fact during 2000, Nrityagram was unable to conduct their renowned 'Vasantahabba' mainly due to lack of sponsors. This dusk to dawn cultural festival held every year since 1994, has been a showcase of the best of the talents in classical styles available in the country.

Visitor info:
Distance: 30kms from Bangalore (take deviation from NH4 at Peenya -Dasarahalli towards Hesaraghatta)
Timing: 10am to 5pm (get permission at the reception to enter village)
Food: Refreshments available during vasantahabba
Caution: No lodging available (make arrangements for warm clothing)

This year 'Vasanthahabba' was held on Feb 02, 2002.


Click here to read about last years "Vasanthahabba" Festival of Dance

Text and Photographs by Levine Lawrence

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