There is a tiny town on the border of Uttara
Kannada and Shimoga districts called Banavasi. Nestled
deep in the forests of Western Ghats, this temple town resides on
the Varadha river. In its fertile soil grows rice, sugarcane, arecanut,
spices and the famous Banavasi Pineapple. But why does this
quaint, little known town come into the limelight once every year?
Though Banavasi means 'nestled in the forest', it has a history
rivalled by no other town in the entire state. Ptolemy, the
ancient Greek geographer, wrote about a place called 'Bansi' in South
India. Banavasi is the place where Pampa, the first poet of
Kannada, wrote his epic poems. This was the capital of the Kadambas,
the first kingdom of ancient Karnataka. This is where the temple architecture
of the Chalukyas and the Hoysalas got its basic elements. This was
the ancient place of learning to which scholars flocked from other
states like Goa and Maharashtra.
But there is very little here that reminds us of its glorious past.
In fact, the only reminder of the Kadamba era is the famous
Madhukeshwara Temple around which the town has grown. Built
in stone nearly 1500 years ago, this temple is one of the earliest
evidence of architectural splendour of the Kadamba era. This temple
dedicated to Lord Shiva was modified with additional structures
by later dynasties. This unique feature of the temple illustrates
how the architectural styles evolved from the 9th Century to present
times.
The
innermost sanctum sanctorum is built in a very plain style with minimal
carving on the door and the lintel. The Sankalpa mantapa in front
reveals the influence of the Chalukyan style. There is a seven
foot huge Nandi idol made of a single stone. The Nritya mantapa or
the dancing hall was added during the Hoysala period and has
exquisite carving on the pillars and the ceiling. This is the spot
where the legendary Shantala challenged the famed musician
Allama Prabhu. She went on to become the wife of king Vishnuvardhana
and inspired the renowned dancing sculptures of Belur and
Halebid.
The presiding deity of Madhukeshwara is a honey coloured lingam
dedicated during the period of Mayura Varma, the first king
of Kadambas. Legend has it that he was originally Mayura Sharma, a
Brahmin studying in Kanchipuram. Humiliated by the Pallava
princes, he vowed revenge. He took up the study of warfare or Kshathriya
Vidya and became a warrior king who established the Kadamba dynasty
in 345.A.D.
Now,
centuries later, Banavasi is returning to its former glory as a cultural
capital. Every December, folk dancers, classical musicians, drama
troupes, Yakshagana artistes assemble for 'Kadambothsav', a
huge cultural festival bringing together artistes and performers from
all over south India. This big event, organized by the state government,
is attended by dignitaries and eminent literary personalities.
Banavasi
has always been a centre of culture, mainly the Yakshagana art
form. Local artisans are now commercially selling the renowned
Yakshagana
masks here. So, whether you are an art and culture connoisseur
or an antiquity buff, be in Banavasi this year end to relish the sweet
pineapple and watch the best assembly of folk dancers!
Traveller's Info: Distance: 374 kms from Bangalore Nearest Rail head: Shimoga-112kms away Nearest Towns: Sirsi 18kms away Accommodation: No lodging available (Better stay
in Sirsi or Jog) Best time to visit: December- Kadambothsav and February-
Mahashivarathri