Who was the first commander in chief of the armed forces of independent India? Who led the Indian army in the 1965 war with Pakistan? Where does the bulk of Indian coffee come from? Which district in India has always represented itself in the Indian National Hockey team? Where do you find beautiful, industrious women who wear the traditional sari in their own unique style? What is the common thread running through all the above questions… simple, it is the land of Kodagu or Coorg.

Moving away from the city of Mysore towards the Western Ghats, the road winds through dense forests and misty mountains. As the breeze gets cooler we can smell the sweet aroma of coffee in the air. In spring, the coffee plantations along the highway are in full bloom and the fragrance spreading from the coffee blossoms is intoxicating. This is the signal that we are now entering the endearing land of coffee and warriors.

The Kodavas are renowned for their martial culture. Legend has it that during theconquest of Alexander the great, many of his soldiers stayed back in India. They migrated down south, married the natives and settled down in the hilly areas of the western ghats. That could be the secret to the valiant nature and the Greek god-like physique of the Kodavas. And the beauty of a Kodava girl is beyond description!

Despite being the smallest district in Karnataka, Coorg has always maintained its distinct culture, liberal lifestyle and carefree attitude. A traditional Kodava wedding will have all the youngsters and the young at heart attired in the Kupya dress, dancing to beat of drums. Special Pork or Pandhi Curry and liquor keep the spirits high. Marriages are a simple affair with more importance given to social gathering than rituals. The dowry system is unknown here and the marriage ceremony is conducted without a Brahmin priest. The most endearing fact about a Kodava marriage is that anybody who is interested to know their custom and want to be part of the joyful occasion, can just walk in and feel at home.

Though coffee is the major cultivation in Coorg, other spices like cardamom, pepper, cinnamon and other spices grown here also figure in international trade. Plantations are interspersed amidst thick evergreen forests which are very well preserved by the community. The tradition of protecting patches of forest 'Devarakadus' for their religious significance is well known in Coorg. And that is where the famed Coorg honey comes from. Coffee seeds are processed in the plantation itself and the capital Madikeri has lot of processing plants.

Madikeri, residing on the foothills, is so compact that you can walk from one end to the other with ease. At one end of the town is the famed 'Raja Seat', built for the pleasure of the former kings of the Haleri Raja dynasty. The view from here at dusk and dawn is enchanting. The tombs of the Kodava kings are located at the other end. Built in the Indo-Saracenic style, it shows the Muslim influence due to Tipu Sultan's brief rule over Kodagu. The fort, towering over the heart of the town was built in 1812 and encloses the local government offices, museum, St Mark's church and the central library.

Moving away from the city of Madikeri, the important places to visit are Abbi falls, Irpu falls, Talacauvery, Bhagamandala, Nagarahole and the Nisargadhama. Located inside a private coffee estate, Abbi falls is visited by hordes of picnickers during weekends after the monsoon months. Bhagamandala is the temple town of Sri Bhagandeshwara, located on the confluence point of Cauvery, Sujyothi, and Kanike rivers. Moving up towards the Brahmagiri hill we come to the sacred spot of Talacauvery, the origin of river Cauvery. Talacauvery is a revered place for Hindus and especially so Kodavas. Every year after the monsoon, on a predetermined date and time of Tulasankramana every year, the spring from Gundige overflows, which is called Thirthodbhava.

The view from atop the Brahmagiri hill, 300 steps above the temple, is breathtaking. The Shola forests combine with grasslands on top of the peaks of the hills and give an ethereal effect. And right now is the time for the Utthari Habba, the harvest festival for all Kodavas. So join them in their celebration of life and thanksgiving to nature!

Traveller's Info:
Distance: 252 kms from Bangalore
Nearest Rail head: Mysore- 112kms away
Accommodation: Excellent lodging facilities
Note: Easiest way to meet Kodavas and tribals is to go to the local
market during the weekly shanty.

Market days are:
Monday-- Somavarpet
Tuesday-- Napoklu
Wednesday-- Virajpet
Thursday-- Murnad
Friday-- Madikeri
Saturday-- Shanivarsanthe
Sunday-- Gonikoppal

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